Day IV (part II) - Kyoto

Day IV (part II) - Kyoto

After leaving Kiyomizu-Dera we walked through a very busy marketplace on our way to the next attraction. In this quarter, along with the Gion quarter which we visited later, you will see many Geisha and Maiko.

For those of us who didn't see or read Memoirs of a Geisha, basically Geisha are traditional, female Japanese entertainers, whose skills include performing various Japanese arts, such as classical music and dance. They are known for their elaborate dress, typically involving kimonos and intricate hair styling.







Contrary to popular belief, geisha are not prostitutes. Their purpose is to entertain their customer, be it by reciting verse, playing musical instruments, or engaging in conversation. Geisha engagements may include flirting with men and playful innuendos; however, clients know that nothing more can be expected. As it was explained to me - some men are amused by the illusion of that which is never to be. Also, geisha are expected to be single women; those who choose to marry must retire from the profession.


There is so much involved in being a Geisha that it takes a large amount of training, encompassing many months to years. Geisha in training are called maiko. It is maiko who wear the stereotypical white face paint, not geisha, as is commonly thought.



We did see a few people dressed up like maiko but we had no idea whether they actually were maiko, as it is a tourist attraction for women to pay money to have the someone dress them up like a maiko. And to answer your question, no, I did not pay anyone to dress me up like a maiko.


The marketplace we walked through was also pretty fun. There were countless little shops that carried goods that ranged in price from dirt cheap tourist items to very expensive collector's items.


In this marketplace, along with many other areas of Tokyo, you will see monks (or people dressed up like monks) taking donations.


Yasaka Shrine






At the end of the walk we stopped at the Yasaka Shrine, which is a Shinto shrine.

To summarize what wikipedia says about Shinto - the most immediately striking theme in the Shinto religion is a great love and reverence for nature in all its forms and for natural artifacts and processes. Shinto beliefs and ways of thinking are deep in the subconscious fabric of modern Japanese society. The afterlife is not a primary concern in Shinto; much more emphasis is placed on fitting into this world, instead of preparing for the next.


Shinto has no binding set of dogma, no holiest place for worshippers, no person or kami (spirits) deemed holiest, and no defined set of prayers. Instead, Shinto is a collection of rituals and methods meant to mediate the relations of living humans and kami. Some kami are local and can be regarded as the spiritual being/spirit or genius of a particular place, but others represent major natural objects and processes.



Though Shinto has no absolute commandments for its adherents outside of living "a simple and harmonious life with nature and people", there are said to be "Four Affirmations" of the Shinto spirit:


Tradition and the family: The family is seen as the main mechanism by which traditions are preserved. Their main celebrations relate to birth and marriage.
Love of nature: Nature is sacred; to be in contact with nature is to be close to the kami. Natural objects are worshipped as containing sacred spirits.
Physical cleanliness: Followers of Shinto take baths, wash their hands, and rinse out their mouths often.
"Matsuri": Any festival dedicated to the Kami, of which there are many each year. We were not in Kyoto for any festivals, unfortunately.




At the Yasaka Shrine went through the routine of washing our hands and summoning the diety and all but at that point we were just about done with sightseeing so we didn't stay long. One ritual that I did not discuss in my last post was the receiving of fortunes.


You can receive a fortune by paying a small donation. The fortunes can be good or bad. If it is good, you take the fortune with you. If it is bad, you tie it up to a post as seen here.


Personally, I prefer Chinese fortunes which come free with dinner, are always good, contain lucky numbers, and come enclosed in a delicious cookie shell.






Tea Ceremony


At the strong recommendation from others we attended a tea ceremony. Tea ceremonies are a big deal in Japan. It is a traditional activity strongly influenced by Zen Buddhism, in which powdered green tea (called "matcha"), is ceremonially prepared and served to others.

We had two instructors line out the steps of the tea ceremony one by one and then we prepared a cup of tea for ourselves.







The process, although not overly exciting, was fascinating. It was amazing how each and every step was incredibly precise and contrived. The kettle was to be held in this hand, the tea whisk in this hand, when done with the whisk you are to place it at this angle, then you are to turn the bowl two times in this direction. The ceremony was a like a mixture between a complex religious ritual and a very formal dinner.


To me it was also a microcosm for how the Japanese approach many things - with a great deal of planning, precision, and execution.


Tea Ceremonies evolved to include a very elaborate meal known as a Kaiseki, which we had later in the week and I will discuss in further detail later on.

Gion

After dinner we headed out in the Gion area of Kyoto. This traditionally was a red-light district area of Kyoto and currently is the center for much of its nightlife. There is a long stretch along a river that hundreds of people (seen above) would hang out, but other than that it was mainly a few blocks of restaurants and bars. Kyoto University is in the area and there is a pretty vibrant nightlife for Japanese youths.

Unfortunately, it was not very vibrant for American tourists. Overall we found the nightlife in Kyoto to be a little thin. Places were very small and people were not overly receptive to non-Japanese patrons. Most places we went we were the only people in the bar.

We did end up going to the only place that welcomed tourists with open arms - a club known as "World." I have not been to a club in years but we didn't have many options and figured why not just check out the scene. It was a weird experience for sure.There were Japanese DJs spinning techno beats and multiple screens with crazy videos being shown non-stop.

and the place was littered with wacked out Japanese ravers.




Here are a few videos of the madness.

Overall it was similar to the rave scene that was popular here in the States in the late 90s/early 2000s, only the video screens were crazier and there were less glowsticks.

We stayed out pretty late but after the third DJ came on we had had enough and went back to the Hotel.

That's it for our first full day in Kyoto.